Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has consistently been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and travelers alike praising its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, Unesco designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a prestigious roster of global cities and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it enters a international community of over 400 metropolises across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "stands as proof of its deep-rooted culinary traditions and vibrant food ecosystem," as stated by a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of seventy urban centers around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The accolade for this historic city arrives as no surprise to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many share the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, chaotic, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is at last in the limelight for what has always characterized its essence: an profound devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a continued dialogue from waking up until night in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and raised to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of food experimentation, blending Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only celebrates seasonal produce but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on many street corners, there are little shops and carts – lesser-known delights that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start milling around from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, served in kulhads, along with fluffy buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a simple joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and demanding. The artisan beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing airy feel.
On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however express concern that their younger generation do not want to learn the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will inspire more people globally to discover these stories and travel to the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
